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The Tanaka Line

Grand Seiko 56GS 5646-7020

Grand Seiko 5646-7020: a pyramidal cut crystal, green linen-textured dial and stepped markers turn the watch into a continuous play of reflections.
Grand Seiko 56GS · 5646-7020 · August 1972

One continuous reflection

The cut crystal, graded green linen dial and stepped markers make the 7020 one of the most extrovert watches I own. Almost the whole case is polished; the small brushed tips of the lug platforms are a telling exception.

Yet the result holds together. The facets of the case answer those of the crystal until the watch seems to become one continuous reflective surface. It is a long way from the clarity of the early Seiko Style watches, but I can still see the ambition to make a watch shine brilliantly.

Living with the reflections

Legibility is not its strongest suit. The dark dial and active reflections can make it harder to read than the quieter GS references. That is part of the actual experience of this watch, alongside the extraordinary pleasure of watching it catch the light.

The watch

Reference5646-7020
My exampleAugust 1972
FamilyGrand Seiko · 56GS
ManufactureSuwa Seikosha
Movement5646 · automatic, day and date
Beat rate28,800 vibrations/hour · 4 Hz
CaseStainless steel
Case width, without crown36.1 mm
Thickness, including crystal12.6 mm

Dimensions measured on this example.

The darker green

Beside the King Seiko 5626-7200, this Grand Seiko feels darker and more intricate. The KS has larger planes and a more youthful green; the GS adds smaller folds, stepped details and a more subdued colour beneath the spectacle.

Green King Seiko 5626-7200 above the darker green Grand Seiko 5646-7020
King Seiko 5626-7200 above; Grand Seiko 5646-7020 below

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Watch details