Grand Seiko 56GS 5646-7020

One continuous reflection
The cut crystal, graded green linen dial and stepped markers make the 7020 one of the most extrovert watches I own. Almost the whole case is polished; the small brushed tips of the lug platforms are a telling exception.
Yet the result holds together. The facets of the case answer those of the crystal until the watch seems to become one continuous reflective surface. It is a long way from the clarity of the early Seiko Style watches, but I can still see the ambition to make a watch shine brilliantly.
Living with the reflections
Legibility is not its strongest suit. The dark dial and active reflections can make it harder to read than the quieter GS references. That is part of the actual experience of this watch, alongside the extraordinary pleasure of watching it catch the light.
The watch
| Reference | 5646-7020 |
|---|---|
| My example | August 1972 |
| Family | Grand Seiko · 56GS |
| Manufacture | Suwa Seikosha |
| Movement | 5646 · automatic, day and date |
| Beat rate | 28,800 vibrations/hour · 4 Hz |
| Case | Stainless steel |
| Case width, without crown | 36.1 mm |
| Thickness, including crystal | 12.6 mm |
Dimensions measured on this example.
The darker green
Beside the King Seiko 5626-7200, this Grand Seiko feels darker and more intricate. The KS has larger planes and a more youthful green; the GS adds smaller folds, stepped details and a more subdued colour beneath the spectacle.
